Larch Madness!!??

Western Larch

So I asked a few people when I moved to my neighborhood "How is the Fall Color?" ....Well the park slows down for a bit but then the "leafers" get here in October and then "Larch Madness" starts. So I had heard of leafers before. They are tourists who come in to see the fall colors as the leaves change color on the aspens, cottonwoods and birches. But Larch Madness? What was that? A Pine tree that loses it's needles in the fall? Are you people crazy? I had never heard of such a thing.

Mt Nicholas Glacier National Park

Well it turns out that it is the Western Larch or Tamarack. Western larch have captured
imaginations for centuries; a deciduous conifer that looks like an evergreen, a larch tree’s needles lose their chlorophyll in the fall, showing bursts of yellow and orange before the needles drop for the winter.
It’s a highly anticipated event that should be enjoyed for the simple, eye-popping pleasure of watching broad swaths of forested mountainsides crackle like fireworks, but the scientific explanation of the phenomenon is equally absorbing. 

Freight Train in Glacier National Park

According to an article from the Montana FWP, Western larch, found in western Montana and in northern Idaho, is the largest of the American larches — the U.S. Forest Service notes has discovered 700-year-old trees with a girth eight feet in diameter towering 150 feet high. Often referred to as tamaracks, in Northwest Montana they’re more likely to be western larch, according to Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks.Western larch needles take on their golden luminescence as the days grow shorter and temperatures drop. Conducting photosynthesis becomes more difficult, so the tree conserves nutrients by ceasing the process. The needles’ color changes because chlorophyll (the light-absorbing pigment that provides energy for photosynthesis) is absorbed back into the tree, leaving behind a yellow pigment, xanthophyll.

Western Larch Forrest Glacier National Park

Their conical canopy structure, needle shape and water transport systems closely resemble those of evergreen conifers. Larches, however, save energy and avoid winter damage to their foliage by dropping their needles. This helps them grow tall and compete with other conifers.

Larches have also evolved to succeed amid wildfire and its effects on forests. They have thick bark that is low in resin content, helping them resist ground fires. They shed their bottom branches as they grow and have high canopies to stave off crown fires. Their winged seedlings spread easily in the wind and grow quickly in the mineral-rich soils of scorched ground. Mature larches are often the only trees left standing after a wildfire. 

Murphy Lake Montana

The western larch provides important food and shelter for wildlife. Several studies have documented its importance to pileated woodpeckers, which prefer it to other trees for nesting and foraging. Many other birds, rodents and small mammals will feed on and nest in both living and dead larch trees.

Pileated Wood Pecker

Well this I had to see. I made numerous trips around the Flathead valley and saw the deciduous trees loose their leaves early because of a windstorm and early snowfall. I wondered if  Larch Madness would occur. 

Western Larch Swan Valley Montana

It did of course and was I surprised. Bright orangey/yellow trees stood out from all the others. Sometimes looking like candles as the colors started at the bottom and flamed out at the top. I was addicted to Larches and was happy to even have a few in my yard. 

Swan River Montana

The Flathead valley has been amazing so far and I am wondering what the next season will bring. I know BRRRRRR!

Ice scuplture Trail of the Cedars Glacier National Park

The Blue Jay Obsession

OK so I guess I have a lot of obsessions…..fishing, photography, bear grass (all wildflowers I guess), Going to the Sun Road, Glacier, rocks ect. But my newest obsession is Blue Jays. Not the baseball ones (although I do like the logo and some of their young players) the passerine kind.

The Blue Jay (Cyanocitta cristata) is a passerine bird in the family Corvidae, native to North America. It resides through most of eastern and central United States, although western populations may be migratory. Resident populations are also found in Newfoundland, Canada, while breeding populations can be found across southern Canada. It breeds in both deciduous and coniferous forests, and is common in residential areas. It is predominantly blue with a white chest and under parts, and a blue crest. It has a black, U-shaped collar around its neck and a black border behind the crest. Both sexes are similar in size and plumage, and plumage does not vary throughout the year.

I knew we had them in Montana but had only heard them and seen them from afar. Then one day one of our neighbors said they came to their house all the time. Well if that was true Erin and I would try and get them to come to our feeders at home. We put out different seeds and suets trying to get them to come by. We were worried that our birdseed would attract bears so we kept everything swept off.

One weekend we were at an event for the Artisans and Craftman of the Flathead and saw a cool metal piece featuring Blue Jays. Well if I couldn’t get the real thing this would be close. We got home that day tired so I put the piece on the kitchen table. The next day Blue Jays came to visit our feeder. I don’t know if it was magic or if they saw the piece and thought “Hey these guys are alright…They like us!!” But they sounded the dinner bell and have been here ever since.

They are a little different than our old California Jays in that they are very skittish. I have to set out food and hide around corners to get a good photo. They are loud and obnoxious like California Jays so nothing new or surprising there.

Can’t wait to see them in the snow as I hear they stay. I hope so, I am enjoying my new beautiful bird friends!!

My Obsession with Beargrass and Going to the Sun Road

For as long as I can remember I have wanted to see Beargrass. It is a beautiful flower but no more than some others. Maybe it is because the name conjures up a bunch of bears playing in a grassy meadow. But in reality Beargrass is not a grass, but a member of the Melanthiaceae family.

Beargrass and Friend

My first Beargrass

The plant is native to Montana, but can also be found in subalpine meadows and coastal mountains throughout the Pacific Northwest, extending from British Columbia to northern California and eastward to Alberta and northwestern Wyoming. Beargrass can grow up to five feet in height with long and wiry, grass-like basal leaves at the base of the stalk and a cluster of small, dense white flowers at the top. 

Bears do not eat the plant, but they will use leaves as denning material. Sheep, deer, elk, and goats are known to eat Beargrass. It isn’t particularly rare but I just never hit the right place at the right time.

Last year Glacier had epic blooms of Beargrass and the theory is that if you have a good year then you have a couple not so good years in between another good one. I was hoping for a fair year at least as this year I would be here to find it.

It was the beginning of June and I had heard from a few other photographers that Beargrass was starting to blooming some parts of the park. We had to go look! Plus it was the opening of the Going to the Sun Road another thing that had eluded me for years. The Going to the Sun Road as told by Glacier National Park “spans 50 miles and crosses the Continental Divide at Logan Pass. During your traverse you will see impressive glaciers, beautiful valleys, cascading waterfalls, towering mountains and colorful wildflowers. Most visitors will also witness wildlife sightings on their trip across the Sun Road!” The road is only open after the snow is cleared in early June and closes in October so as I have vacationed here in years past in Spring and fall and have missed out. 

Going to the Sun Rd , Spring 2019

It was opening day on the Going to the sun road and I was excited, what would it look like, would we see animals and would I find Beargrass! Now one thing they forget to tell you is that while Going to the Sun Rd is beautiful it is also very dangerous. Steep and narrow with turnouts that only fit a car or two. Animals will sometimes randomly cross in front sometimes scaring you, sometimes creating traffic jams. Beautiful scenery making it difficult to concentrate and lots of tourists randomly stopping anywhere at any time. Many people die on the road each year so it is never without the excitement. The drive began cold and it rained off and on but we didn’t care.

Lake McDonald

Lake McDonald was the first stop and it was beautiful as always, then we stopped and admired steep waterfalls and amazing mountain scenery and finally got to the steep narrow part of the road. We also saw what looked like it could be Beargrass just starting but weren’t sure. On one side the road was narrow with amazingly long drop-offs close to a small barrier keeping us safe.

Looking down from Going to the Sun Road

The other side was a giant cliff with water continuously falling on the cars driving the other direction. If that wasn’t enough sometimes a car would decide at the last minute to stop in one of many tiny turnouts and you would just hope everybody was paying attention.  Today everybody was except me of course I was on the lookout for animals and Beargrass! Fortunately Erin was driving and trying to concentrate and not freak out and doing a great job.

Icy Waterfall

We saw amazing sights incredible mountains and valleys, glaciers and waterfalls covered in ice. We even saw a Bighorn sheep cross the road in front of us but no Beargrass.

Bighorn Sheep

Finally as we descended altitude I saw it. Beargrass, it was amazing! It was pouring rain and growing in a burnt out forest, but I didn’t care It was there! I jumped out of the car and ran down a slippery trail as Erin laughed and smartly stayed in the car. I returned 20 minutes later soaked but happy I had seen Beargrass.

Rainy Beargrass

Since that initial time I have been back and most recently had the opportunity to go with a former boss who was driving through to Canada and stayed with us for a few days. We hit Going to the Sun Rd and he was amazed at the sights the and the mountain goats and marmots but we hit the Beargrass at the optimum time and ran around taking photos it looked like a movie set for the Sound of Music.

Beargrass near Logan Pass

We actually said “ I wonder if we will see Julie Andrews singing below us!” It was definitely the highlight of this trip for me

Beargrass at the top of Going to the Sun Road

Beargrass

Glacier National Park is amazing and I am excited to see what the park has in store for me in fall and winter!!

Craig gets to go fishing!! And why is it 9:30 at night and not sunset yet!!

It’s been a few weeks now and the house is looking like a home. We have had lots of minor repairs for contractors to fix and things to fix ourselves. We replaced a couple leaky toilets, tore off some awful peach wallpaper borders, replaced some 1970’s lighting and had rain gutters installed to correct some damage that the rain had caused. We even have chosen a contractor to build us a small garage, (something I guess we need here judging from last year’s photos.)

The house in winter

It had been a long time since I was able to go fishing. I had major surgery on my shoulder in December and wasn’t really able to fish much in the months before. I am enjoying Montana immensely but I do miss my fishing/photography buddy Scott and it probably has been almost a year since we had fished last. I am sure I will see him before long and we can have some new adventures.

In California a regular fishing trip usually started @5:30 am in order to beat traffic and get to the lake or stream at a decent hour. Scott and I would usually fish till @2 and then drive back to our respective houses. Oh and if it was a race day near Sears Point forget fishing altogether!

Her in Montana we finally felt like we were settled in and at a point where Erin needed some alone time. She suggested I probably should go fishing. (She does this from time to time to help her creativity and I think it’s why our marriage is successful, that and the fact that I will fish at any opportunity) The only problem was that I needed a fishing license and to get one you need to be a resident and have a driver’s license from Montana. Great,…I am a resident, but I wasn't able to get my driver’s license because you have to make an appointment, and I couldn’t get an appointment for over a month and a half!! The other problem with that situation was that it is illegal to be a resident and not have a driver's license after 30 days!! What a catch 22!! Well I gave in and bought the out of state fishing license for $120 rather than wait to get the resident one for $30. I’ll save money next year, fishing is more important. Erin and I also vowed to drive super safe to avoid being pulled over until we had our licenses.(we finally got them and they are good for 8 years!!)

Finally the morning came to head out and fish. I picked nearby Echo Lake that is known for its Smallmouth Bass. I woke up at 6 ate breakfast watched birds on the deck and gathered my stuff together. I was out the door by 7 and on the lake by 7:30.

Echo Lake

What!! Wait, no long drives, no getting up at O dark thirty, no driving around in the dark and it only takes 15 minutes to get to this lake. I must be dreaming. I don’t even care if I catch anything I am finally on the water again after almost a year. I get comfortable cast a few times then whack.. a fish. I had been fishing less than 5 minutes and I caught a fish already! No way!! I proceeded to watch Osprey admire the surroundings and catch and release (As I always do) @12 fish that day.

Echo Lake

Some small, some bigger and after 5 hours texted Erin I would be home for lunch in 15 minutes. Amazing!

Smallmouth Bass

Smallmouth Bass

Smallmouth Bass

A few days later I tried my luck again. I got to fish a Lake that my fishing buddy Scott had told me about on a trip to Montana that he took with his wife a few years back. One where he was able to catch a Grayling, a fish I had never caught. From his photos and description to me over the phone I couldn’t wait to get there. This lake was farther away, a whole 40 minutes from my house😉. Lake Rogers is a beautiful lake on the west side of Kalispell.

Rogers Lake

As I arrived I saw the lily pads were blooming and there wasn’t another person in sight. The weather was beautiful as only a few clouds dotted the sky. I was happy to get to fish in such a beautiful spot and I saw a loon with two chicks just off shore. I got my stuff and kicked my float tube out from shore only to scare a few yellow headed blackbirds out of the reeds. There were lily pads all over and I saw just enough of a clear spot to cast my line to stretch it out. As I tossed it out, I applied my sunscreen and got comfortable hoping for some luck. My first strip of my line and a large Cutthroat trout surprised me by grabbing the fly.

Cutthroat Trout

 I got him in, released him, and quickly casted again. Boom another nice fish! I was amazed at my luck but greedily I wanted my grayling. As I was trying to get through the weeds, a homeowner called out and asked me to fish a little deeper as she was afraid I would hook her waterline. Now realistically my tiny fly on a line that doesn’t go anywhere near the bottom wasn’t a threat but I assured her I would move out. (I don’t think she can ask this but my car still has California plates and I heard everybody here has guns so I figured I would play nice)As I moved out she thanked me and wished me good luck.

I moved out further and as I did I was constantly getting tangled in the lilies. I started cursing the lady who made me move. Nothing for over an hour but then I saw a fish jump near the far shore so I kicked over. I still got nothing, so I figured I would change flies. I put on a fly with a golden sparkle and I soon got a small bite. It fell off but maybe I was onto something. Over the next hour I caught a few more cutthroats and as I was trying to convince myself how great I was doing, a bald eagle flew overhead  checking me out and looking for any fish I might have released. I was still depressed I hadn’t caught any Grayling. Then finally I cast through a small opening in the lilies and a grayling came to my net. I was so happy and as I tried to take a photo it slipped back into the water. Darn it nobody will believe me. Then I remembered a phone call a few years ago as Scott was at this same lake catching Grayling and him telling me ”they are so slippery I can’t take a darn picture they keep falling back into the water…You will never believe me!!” I laughed at the similarity and proceeded to catch 10 grayling in a row photographing them in my net just so I had proof. I had to call Scott while I was there and tell him the story and he remembered his fondness for Lake Rogers.

Grayling

Now every lake isn’t as great as these two (I don’t think) as I found out while trying to catch my first Northern Pike. Smith Lake is about 30 minutes west of my house and I tried my luck there after the fishing report said “A great place to take the kids to catch small pike!). 

Smith Lake

I fished Smith on a Sunday morning and there were a handful of people and boats around. They were all eager to tell me a few tips and as I had never caught one I think they were interested to see if I could unhook one.(they have lots of teeth.) Another nice day, a few more eagles and hundreds of casts later I gave up. As I came to shore others followed and it was all the same thing. Nothing, no idea why but at least it wasn’t just me. I took a few photos of another beautiful Montana lake and vowed to return to get my first Northern Pike….someday.

Since I had gotten to go fishing, I needed to try and see something else I had always wanted to do. See The Northern Lights! Randomly the solar flares get so big that they can be seen in Montana. Winter, spring and late fall are the best times. I have an app on my phone that lets me know if the flares are big enough and if that coincides with the new moon I have a chance. So the weather was cooperating except for the small wisps of smoke from the Canadian wildfires. I got my photo gear ready and prepared to head up to Glacier National Park and Lake McDonald. The best times to see the lights are after 12 midnight but I wanted to see the sunset so I left early. Now, we have been messed up by the daylight up here since we moved. If you don’t have a clock you can run errands work outside and come in for dinner and it’s already 9:00 pm!! It just never gets dark! One night I wanted to photograph a sunset at Flathead Lake so I ate dinner watched TV and began to head out at 9:30pm. Sunset is @9:30 and Sunrise is around 5 am so that’s @16 hours of Daylight compared to Petaluma California 13 hours. Now I know it doesn’t seem like a bunch but it’s really different. Here you can go out for an afternoon hike and catch the sunset and if you aren't careful you might as well eat at a gas station because everything is closed at 10 pm. So I leave to attempt the Northern Lights at Glacier at 9:00pm and I’m in the spot at Lake McDonald by 9:45.

Sunset Lake McDonald

At 11:00 a Ranger stoops by for a chat and we talk for a while and I make sure they are cool with me being there. As long as I don’t sleep where I was he said I am good. The Ranger leaves to look for something more interesting to do. Soon I am joined by a group of college kids enjoying the night sky. We talk about the constellations and they head out to the pier to wait and see if the Northern lights appear. They make a good comp for my photo so I am happy. At 3 am we all give up and I head home. A very neat experience but no Northern Lights this time, I will try again.

Night skies over  Lake McDonald

The First weeks

 (or standing outside next to the internet tree)

You may be wondering why it took so long for me to start this blog. Our move in date was May 26 but I didn't start this blog till July 10^{th !} Well some things take a little longer in Montana and internet service is one of them. I guess I should have expected it, living outside of town (20 miles) makes phone and internet services a bit difficult. At the house we have one bar of service but only if we stand next to a tree, so we were excited to make the appointments for phone and TV. The appointment for the TV service was 2 weeks out but the first internet appointment was over a month away. We could handle it, it was beautiful and hundreds of moving boxes needed to be unpacked. 

The View From the Deck

We began the unpacking process and made numerous trips to Lowes and Costco to grab supplies. My wife Erin was enjoying most of everything but she was still trying to get used to the quiet and the thought that I had moved her out into the middle of a forest.

Boxes and Boxes

Eating all of our meals on the front deck was now commonplace for us, a pleasant change from the busy and noisy city of Petaluma. Beautiful views abounded, and as soon as we put up a bird feeder we started seeing birds that were all new to us.

 Evening Grosebeaks,

Evening Grosebeak

Downy Woodpecker

Bald Eagles overhead

Calliope Hummingbirds, Woodpeckers even Bald Eagles would soar by. But every once in a while we would catch ourselves trying to send a photo or look up some information on our phones and it would be a half hour of standing next to our tree!




One night while eating dinner it got a little quiet even the birds stopped singing, out of the corner of my eye I see a movement. A young Black Bear sauntered under us and into the driveway. As he heard us gasp he jogged down the driveway, across the street and into the bushes. So great to see one from my own deck, yes I guess I did move Erin into the forest!!

The Black Bear in the Driveway

The bad news is that with all the nature around she had yet to see a squirrel. Now to be honest one of the stipulations on my house search was it had to have a squirrel? (the other two stipulations were no neighbors she could see, or stairs in the house. I was kind of 0 for 3 so far) Everybody said there were squirrels but so far none. I had seen one when I was here last fall but I was getting worried.

We were slowly meeting a few neighbors and the delivery guys began to be our best friends. A quick delivery from UPS or Fed EX sometimes turned into a half hour chatting session. My trips to the dump (which is free in Montana!!) sometimes took an hour as I would find somebody who would want to talk fishing or winter driving or whatever. Store trips took on an unusual vibe as we would always walk out saying…”those were the nicest people ever at store X” or “That was the best experience I've ever had in that store” 

Our bed frame delivery guy who is proficient in chainsaw carving and all sorts of woodworking, agreed to help us with other projects and then take me fishing to some of his secret spots! Now the funny thing is he looks like Grizzly Adams and talks a little like a mountain man but ends up he has an economics degree from the University of Montana and is as smart as anybody I have been around both in Montana or the Bay Area! Oh yeah and our beds and lamps he helped make are pretty cool too!!

Bear Lamp

Pine Bed with Moose Lamp

Now back to the TV and internet fiasco’s. First the TV guy comes out looks around and then tromps off into the woods with what looked like a sextant. About 20 minutes later he comes back and says…well the only way I can help you is if you cut down 5 trees. I moved here for the trees so that isn't going to happen! Nice guy and he recommended another service that could help. We make the appointment for the next week. TV service soon followed, but as soon as it rains, a thunderstorm happens or I’m guessing it snows, we lose service. (Yes a DVD player is on order.) 

The internet guy called soon after and said he would be out the next day. Yahoo!! Well not so fast, he got busy and would have to reschedule for the next week!! OMG this is getting ridiculous, job research, banking, Photoshop, and everything you usually just Google had to be done when we were in a small turn out a mile away, the only  place we had good service. Mapquest, which we needed, was only working when we got out onto the main Highway

View on the way to the store in Bigfork

so we had no idea how long it would take to go anywhere or what direction to head.  Finally the internet guys were coming, they worked for hours and said the good news is that we have internet, the bad is they couldn’t get it from the wall to the computer! A few hours later they gave up. We were at the end of the rope when Erin got the number of the boss and he said he could send a guy to fix it.  The next day a super nice guy arrived and said he wouldn’t leave till it was working. A few hours later we were connected and a few days later I started the blog, just 2 months after we moved in. (Granted we only have 10 mgs on a good day and we hear there aren't many good days.)

Oh and for the direly important squirrels, about a week after the bear sighting I was working in the garage when a squirrel appeared out of nowhere and scolded me good. I figured it was hungry so I put a handful of peanuts out for it. Then I quietly tip toed upstairs and proudly showed off the rare Montana Red Squirrel to Erin. She was happy and was amazed how well that little squirrel had trained me in just one scolding session. We saw the squirrel a few more times and then nothing for about a week. Then we realized it was a female squirrel as she brought back her baby squirrels to rampage all over the deck, terrorize our cats and eat all of the bird’s food!

Finally a Squirrel

The squirrel has an audience

Even though they wake us up at 4:30 in the morning we still love them.

Next time…My first fishing trips, what is with the world being light from 4 am till 10:30 pm!! And our first trip over going to the sun rd and Glacier National Park!